The Head of Loch Gilp

(Click to enlarge)

The predominantly coastal region of Knapdale in Mid Argyll is said to derive its name from the Norse knappr dalr, meaning an area of small, knobby hills and tiny green valleys, which quite accurately describes its very attractive topography. The district is bounded on the north by the Crinan Canal and on the south by West Loch Tarbert, while to west and east respectively lie the Sound of Jura and the long sea-arm of Loch Fyne. This land-mass is in turn split by the deeply-penetrating sea-lochs of Caolisport and Sween into the three distinct areas of South Knapdale, North Knapdale and the Tayvallich peninsula.

Around the head of Loch Sween, flanked by the villages of Tayvallich and Achnamara, lies the area of tiny inlets and lagoons known as the Oib, much of which is covered by the huge Forest of Knapdale which extends north to the Crinan Canal. Although actually a part of North Knapdale this particular section has already been fully covered in the companion booklet, "Crinan and Tayvallich", and therefore will not be included here.

East of the Oib three important communication routes converge at the old drovers' stance of Cairnbaan, from where the main A83 road runs south to Lochgilphead along the edge of what was once the marshy inner reaches of loch Crinan before the area was drained prior to the building of the Crinan Canal in 1810. East of this road in the vicinity of Badden were found signs of pre-historic flint workings (MR858.890), while close to nearby Achnabreck a tall eight-foot stone, known as the "Stane Alane", still guards the line of the older Lochgilphead coach-road running parallel to, but just a little east of, the present motorway (MR857.899).

This old road, which may still be followed on foot, gives access via a Forestry track from Achnabreck farm to the Leacan nam Sluagh, or "Stone of the Hosting" (MR855.908), a huge natural rock-sheet thickly covered with an amazing assortment of cup-and-ring markings which together with a similar group of pre-historic carvings nearby forms one of the most magnificent collections of such petroglyphs in the whole of Argyll.

In addition to this, numerous Iron Age duns and forest lie scattered around the head of Loch Gilp all testifying to the importance, even in such remote times, of this area as a place worthy of continuing settlement and defence. Indeed, the present attractive little town of Lochgilphead itself, although architecturally mainly of early nineteenth century origin, has a long history dating back to medieval times. Its commanding position, not only as guardian of an important inlet of mid Loch Fyne but also of one of the two main east-west through-routes to the Hebrides, has down the centuries endowed it with considerable strategic value both commercially and politically.

And continuing to uphold its time-honoured role as political and economic centre of the surrounding area, Lochgilphead now serves as the headquarters of the Argyll and Bute District Council whose offices are housed at the impressive Kilmory Castle just south of the town along the east side of the loch. The castle, together with its extensive gardens and attractive woodland policies, were created in the nineteenth century by Sir John Orde, a wealthy Jamaican planter, on the site of an older but far more modest Campbell residence acquired by him through marriage. The castle itself is not open to members of the public unless on official business, but visitors are welcome to explore the beautiful grounds where woodland walks and picnic sites have been thoughtfully laid out by the Council who have prepared a useful little information booklet, obtainable from the main office.

Only a short distance along the loch-side road leading to Kilmory stands the distinctive but now near-derelict French-styled Clock Lodge, also built by Sir John to serve as the gate-house for a projected private causeway across the head of Loch Gilp, the remains of which can still be seen at low water stretching away in the direction of Brackley on the opposite shore. The plan, however, met with tremendous opposition from local folk due to its interference with shipping rights, and the much-chagrined baronet was finally compelled to breach his newly-completed structure in order to allow free passage up and down the loch.

Close to the seaward end of the approach road to the castle an old grave-yard marks the site of the original fifteenth century chapel of St Mary from which the area takes its name (MR866.864). Nearby on the shore between high and low water-mark can also be seen a prominent group of huge boulders known as the "Three Sisters" (MR863.866), traditionally said to stand near the spot where in 1412, following the Battle of Harlaw, the Treaty of Polgillip was signed between the Regent Albany and MacDonald, Lord of the Isles.

South of Kilmory, around the loch's eastern bluff of Rubha Caolard, lie the ancient settlements of Balliemore, Shirvan, Castleton and Silvercraigs, all at one time involved not only in the famous Loch Fyne herring industry but also in that of lead, copper, and silver mining. In the fields around Balliemore can still be seen some of the old copper workings, while silver and lead were won from deep inside the seaward crags of Silvercraigs. Down on the shore close to the latter lie rocky boat-nousts said to date back to Viking times, while nearby rise the tall weathered poles of long-abandoned net-stances used by countless generations of local fisherfolk (MR891.843).

Along the western shores of Loch Gilp the Crinan Canal runs just above the main road as far as Ardrishaig, the peaceful towpath affording a welcome alternative to walkers wishing to avoid the busier thoroughfare. Access for pedestrians is provided beside the picturesque lock-keeper's cottage at Miller's Bridge, the pathway running south along the west bank of the canal, passing on the left the site of the ancient chapel of Kilduskland (MR854.866), still reputedly haunted by its one-time incumbents, and on the right the substantial remains of the old Ardrishaig distillery.

Behind the distillery now stretches the extensive new Glenfyne housing estate, at the topmost north-western corner of which a short woodland track leads off for about two hundred yards above the beautiful Kilduskland Burn to reach the Robber's Den (MR848.865). Here many centuries ago, on a narrow spur of rock forming the site of an ancient Iron Age fortress, a celebrated local brigand once had his hideout.

Said to have been a MacVicar of Kilmichael Glassary it was he who, when only a lad, had raised the alarm at the time of the McAlister's infamous raid upon his MacIvor kinsmen's cattle, which in turn precipitated the bloody battle of Carse. Having thus incurred the undying vengeance of the McAlisters he was compelled to spend the rest of his life a hunted and desperate man, tradition relating how he was finally trapped here by his enemies who, having set fire to his hideout, forced him to leap from the crag to his death on their waiting spears.

At the end of Ardrishaig village lies the eastern entrance to the nine-mile long Crinan Canal. Here in summer the busy sea-lock is a-jostle with a variety of craft large and small, providing a colourful and lively spectacle for visitors from dawn to dusk. Below Ardrishaig the waters of Loch Gilp open out into the wider reaches of Loch Fyne, affording to travellers continuing along the Tarbert road the most magnificent views southwards towards the long blue outline of Kintyre beyond which, if visibility permits, can be seen the high soaring peaks of the Isle of Arran far out in the distant Firth of Clyde.